SCARLET SPECTACLE: VETEMENTS FW24
Fashion’s blah era under the existential blade needed this show! Guram’s XXL cultural jamming dramatics jolted us to the max!
Marking 10 years in the fashion game, Zurich-based fashion brand, VETEMENTS, returned to the runway buzzing with grandeur, theatrics and mad quirkiness. Ambushing and amplifying the fashion system outright (per usual!) with a seditious grit and sarcastic wit, Guram Gvasalia’s (below) shamanistic collective delivered a one-of-a-kind comedic melodrama with some plush stagecraft and a nice sonic palette to boot.
A blast of badass mutant outerwear, overscaled alien-looking silhouettes, and masculine-slash-femme styles saturated the shadowy, red-hued room. There was beautiful ugliness on display and streetwear galore, juxtaposed against hyperbolic gender-fluid jams and elegant hybrid everything. We drooled over the dresses, especially #40 and #62, and all those extremely extra-extra bonkers lambskin jackets and layered trenches
The super-oversized outerwear/bombers struck a major chord along with garms festooned with cute teddies (thanks, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac!), bombastic broad-shouldered gear (emblazoned with text ‘team Jolie’, ‘team Aniston’ and ‘Ronaldo’); flashy AF micro-velvet frocks and alabastrine gowns worn by waif witches Katrina Roelle and Tat Katysheva.
The garments and freaky get-ups were next-level severe, but in a super-sexy, existential kind of way. We loved the masterful tailoring and shock duds infused with pop-cosmo poetics. Crucially, the clothes tantalized us by way of their epic freshness, weirdness, and all those hyper-stylized creatures of the id. The best of this range shrouds you in a hallucinogenic postmodernism where strange powers transform human souls into delirious little street style devils.
Kinky, culty and differentiated, the VETEMENTS aesthetic is always upbeat and forward-thinking, while the bulk of fashion land still languishes in a miasma of staleness and mass confusion.
The celeb turnout included Michelle Lamy, J Balvin, Cher, Tyga and our boy, Tommy CA$H. Vamps like Serbian songstress Jelena Karleusa (Donatella Versace’s twin), Alton Mason, Anwar Hadid and some desperate housewives sashayed down the runway. A decade in, this range was a resounding 10!
Check out the video at our favorite fashion platform, SHOWstudio → and buy some here at SSENSE ->